This day in the Sierra Nevadas has convinced me that I was in fact hexed yesterday by the angry gypsys. Oh, that´s right. I haven´t told that story. Well...Sandra and I were walking through the square when two ladies pressed rosemary into our hands and began to tell our forture. It all happened too fast to protest and we went with it. It was quite hokey, but included blessing, stamping on the ground, assurances of long life, love and happiness. Whew! All was well until the end when my lady asked for payment. I was fine with giving her a euro, so began scrounging in my pocket. Meanwhile, Sandra was feeling very generous and had given her lady 5 euro. It only took 2 seconds for my lady to start clammoring for 5 as well. She wouldn´t accept less and I wouldn´t pay more, so I broke away from her and left the square quickly with her shouting behind me.
Fast forward to this morning. We awoke to cool temperatures and a bit of fog (the first day it´s been less than 75 and sunny). Traveling to the bus station to buy our ticket for the short drive to the mountain was simple enough, but when we arrived, we were only allowed to buy a one way ticket. We thought it was a mistake at first, but when we returned to the counter to exchange the ticket, we were met with much resistance. I argued as best as I could in Spanish, but it was no good. There was some screaming - on my part, in frustration - and on the part of the ticket vendor that we would miss our bus - so we decided to take our chances on the return and board. Worst case, we would hitch back, or sleep under the stars.
On the bus we met a group of fellow travelers in the same situation and we commiserated for a bit. When we arrived in Sierra Nevada, we were deposited on the side of the mountain in pea soup fog so thick we couldn´t see more than 5 feet or so. The driver waved farewell and pulled away. We were stuck. It made more sense to be stuck together than stuck apart...so that is how we acquired four Islamic traveling companions who were, incidentally, dressed only in shorts and t-shirts. It was less than 50 degrees on the mountain.
A la Maria von Trapp (albeit with slightly worse weather than on a typical Hollywood set), we set off on a few short walks that were manageable. Finding a pile of snow, an innocent lob of one small ball caused a full scale snowball fight. Not smart. Now, we are cold AND wet. But, we managed to scale a few sheer cliffs with loose rocks, observe an altar to Mary on a mountain top, and climb to the top of an observatory whose door was open (or maybe there wasn´t actually a door on it). Billy goat sentries watched us from high above in their watch tower, and we were lucky enough to get fairly close to the group they were guarding. We convinced a guard to let us pass through a military zone and eventually managed to find our way back to a tiny coffee shop despite a map that was written in German and the pea soup fog.
Soon enough, pea soup fog turned into full scale downpour and we still needed to walk an hour down the mountain. We had determined that a bus would return us to Granada at 5 PM. It was noon. Bob´s ski shack was friendly enough until about 2 when Bob had had enough of entertaining our motley crew. It was still pouring, so we begged him to take us partially down the mountain where we could meet our bus.
Once there, with travel companions who were nearly frozen, we found a cafe and spent the afternoon discussing religion and politics (shocker!). It was quite eye opening to hear our Muslim friends´perspectives on the war and the state of the world. They are also Britains and are more than willing to passionately discuss many subjects. There´s nothing like opening your mind and letting a few new perspectives in!
So, perhaps the hex has been lifted. Or perhaps there never was a hex. Whether my traveling companions agree or not, it was a skipping kind of day that I would repeat many times over.
Thursday, May 8, 2008
Wednesday, May 7, 2008
Love is my religion
This has been a beautiful day. The morning and much of the afternoon were spent wandering around the Alhambra. We scaled hundreds of steps...as if our legs weren´t already protesting! The watch tower was the most impressive. Views from the top were endless. American accents are much more prevalent here than anywhere thus far, and I am forming a strong distaste for it. Generally, the Americans I´ve come in contact with exude an entitlement mentality that is completely intolerant of the culture they are visiting. It is infuriating.
The rest of the day brought some wandering alone. I found an open air market. I am such a sucker for a market. The endless maze of stalls with colorful offerings is enchanting...chatting with shop keepers...smelling, tasting, touching. I found a pair of pants I loved and the shop keep suggested I try them on. It turns out that the dressing room was nothing more than a waist-high sheet stretched across the center of the shop. No thanks! Moving on...
I also visited the cathedral...as you do. My camera is filling with photos of old buildings, so I chose a less traditional path around the city (read: no tourists!) and documented the incredible grafitti that covers every empty space. This included a visit to the University of Granada, the energy around which was intoxicating!
Much time has been spent this trip exploring other people´s religions - we´ve visited a steady stream of churches, mosques, synagoges (even was the subject of a hex by an angry spanish woman, but that´s a story for another day). It´s time to find some religion of our own. Mañana. We will explore the beauty of the Sierra Nevadas on foot.
After the mountains, we move on to Sevilla. I don´t know what´s in store, but I know it involves flamenco!
The rest of the day brought some wandering alone. I found an open air market. I am such a sucker for a market. The endless maze of stalls with colorful offerings is enchanting...chatting with shop keepers...smelling, tasting, touching. I found a pair of pants I loved and the shop keep suggested I try them on. It turns out that the dressing room was nothing more than a waist-high sheet stretched across the center of the shop. No thanks! Moving on...
I also visited the cathedral...as you do. My camera is filling with photos of old buildings, so I chose a less traditional path around the city (read: no tourists!) and documented the incredible grafitti that covers every empty space. This included a visit to the University of Granada, the energy around which was intoxicating!
Much time has been spent this trip exploring other people´s religions - we´ve visited a steady stream of churches, mosques, synagoges (even was the subject of a hex by an angry spanish woman, but that´s a story for another day). It´s time to find some religion of our own. Mañana. We will explore the beauty of the Sierra Nevadas on foot.
After the mountains, we move on to Sevilla. I don´t know what´s in store, but I know it involves flamenco!
Tuesday, May 6, 2008
I heart Granada
My girlfriends were right. Granada and I love each other. Upon very cursory inspection of this new town, I may just stay forever. It´s built in the foothills of the Sierra Nevada, making it very attractive for my hiking feet. It´s also bordered by a beautiful little river, lending cool breezes to hot days. Random staircases form pathways off major roads and what you find is always a surprise. Middle eastern fare dominates and my palate is well pleased. Spanish whisky is now a favorite, and I´ve become a pro at peeeling labels off of wine bottles. Trobadores abound, pleasing my musical ear.
Our pension is fabulous. Recommended from a friend met in Honduras. We´re on the second floor in the pension. It´s tiny, with only bunk beds, a small bench and baker´s rack for depositing clothing. But, it overlooks the Alhambra and has a window that opens it´s wrought iron gates to the open air.
Tomorrow brings a tour of the Alhambra gardens and more wandering. This seems like a great place to get lost for a while.
Our pension is fabulous. Recommended from a friend met in Honduras. We´re on the second floor in the pension. It´s tiny, with only bunk beds, a small bench and baker´s rack for depositing clothing. But, it overlooks the Alhambra and has a window that opens it´s wrought iron gates to the open air.
Tomorrow brings a tour of the Alhambra gardens and more wandering. This seems like a great place to get lost for a while.
I feel pretty...
oh so pretty. I feel pretty, and witty, and...
Okay, enough of that indulgence! My point is, it´s been all about prettiness for the past 24 hours. Though traveling frugally is still the name of the game (the dollar´s value against the euro makes me hyperventilate regularly), minor indulgences are always in order. When else will I have an opportunity to bathe in authentic Arab baths? Two hours of soaking was wonderful medicine for my aching legs.
This morning, I wandered through the gardens of a 14th century palace. It was easy to get lost in the beauty. Imagine the stories those fountains could tell. It is reputed that the discovery of America was discussed here. I´m certain that´s only the beginning.
Leaving Cordoba, I´m now in Granada, which is nestled into the base of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. They are snow-capped even though the weather below is always around 28 degrees C. Vineyards and olive tree farms surround us. Arab influence is even more prevalent here than in Cordoba.
Okay, enough of that indulgence! My point is, it´s been all about prettiness for the past 24 hours. Though traveling frugally is still the name of the game (the dollar´s value against the euro makes me hyperventilate regularly), minor indulgences are always in order. When else will I have an opportunity to bathe in authentic Arab baths? Two hours of soaking was wonderful medicine for my aching legs.
This morning, I wandered through the gardens of a 14th century palace. It was easy to get lost in the beauty. Imagine the stories those fountains could tell. It is reputed that the discovery of America was discussed here. I´m certain that´s only the beginning.
Leaving Cordoba, I´m now in Granada, which is nestled into the base of the Sierra Nevada mountain range. They are snow-capped even though the weather below is always around 28 degrees C. Vineyards and olive tree farms surround us. Arab influence is even more prevalent here than in Cordoba.
Monday, May 5, 2008
Tastings and pigeon poo
Yesterday was a day for tastings. Olive. Wine. Cordoba. After breakfast, I intentionally lost myself in the narrow, winding, and seemingly endless streets of the city. I visited the Museo Bella Artes and Museo Julio Romero de Torres, which were both interesting in very different ways. Afterwards, I continued wandering and happened into a little shop that was filled with olive oil and wine. The proprieter approached me and offered an olive oil lesson and tasting. ¡Si, por favor! But of course!
It turns out you taste olive oil in the same way you taste wine. First, you smell it. Then you swirl it around in your mouth. Finally you swallow it. It´s a wonderful experience when you´re guided by someone as knowledgeable as Pepe. I chose my favorite, which turns out to be one of the top rated oils in all of Spain and now have 20 pounds of it to tote around for 2 weeks. It´s smooth, with a fairly strong taste of green olive, followed by a little kick at the end. Then, Pepe offered me a copa de Fina, which is a very dry white wine made from grapes grown in Cordoba. Not my favorite, but good to try.
For dinner, we ended up at the Museo de la Tapas y el Vino, so of course we tasted tapas and wine. After asking the waiter ¨Que me recomienda?¨ we sat back and waited for him to choose our food. Drinking our bottle of Cermeño (tinto de Toro), which was estupendo, we wrote the following review of our dishes:
Rabo de Toro (stewed oxtail) - I threw vegetarianism to the birds and enjoyed this fabulous local dish. Didn´t know oxtail was so boney though. It was a mess to eat!
Croquetas caseras de espinicas (Spinach croquettes) - Ooey, gooey, creamed spinach with cheese wrapped in a breaded crust. Goodness from start to finish. We ordered more!
Aceitunas (olives) - Sandra found the pits problematic. I thought they were wonderful and was proud of my pit mastery. I know my monkeys are happy for me.
Asadillo de Pimientos - slimy roasted red peppers with scant tuna. Not great.
Albondigas de Bacalao en sala de tomate - fish (cod) balls in tomato sauce with hard peas. Enough said.
Pulpa a la Gallega - bland Galician octopus, which was predictably chewy
Finishing all of this, we were still hungry, so we ordered more Spinach croquettes and added Croquetas de Jamon. The jamon tasted like ooey, gooey, chipped beef in cheese. Yummy goodness. Then, we ordered postres. The waiter brought us a tower of chocolate cake and whipped cream. It was gone in a flash of dueling forks.
On the way home from dinner, after midnight, a pigeon shat upon me. I suppose it wouldn´t be an international trip without some crazy animal mistaking me for their private baño. When Sandra finished laughing, which took way too long, she handed me a tissue...and took a photo.
It turns out you taste olive oil in the same way you taste wine. First, you smell it. Then you swirl it around in your mouth. Finally you swallow it. It´s a wonderful experience when you´re guided by someone as knowledgeable as Pepe. I chose my favorite, which turns out to be one of the top rated oils in all of Spain and now have 20 pounds of it to tote around for 2 weeks. It´s smooth, with a fairly strong taste of green olive, followed by a little kick at the end. Then, Pepe offered me a copa de Fina, which is a very dry white wine made from grapes grown in Cordoba. Not my favorite, but good to try.
For dinner, we ended up at the Museo de la Tapas y el Vino, so of course we tasted tapas and wine. After asking the waiter ¨Que me recomienda?¨ we sat back and waited for him to choose our food. Drinking our bottle of Cermeño (tinto de Toro), which was estupendo, we wrote the following review of our dishes:
Rabo de Toro (stewed oxtail) - I threw vegetarianism to the birds and enjoyed this fabulous local dish. Didn´t know oxtail was so boney though. It was a mess to eat!
Croquetas caseras de espinicas (Spinach croquettes) - Ooey, gooey, creamed spinach with cheese wrapped in a breaded crust. Goodness from start to finish. We ordered more!
Aceitunas (olives) - Sandra found the pits problematic. I thought they were wonderful and was proud of my pit mastery. I know my monkeys are happy for me.
Asadillo de Pimientos - slimy roasted red peppers with scant tuna. Not great.
Albondigas de Bacalao en sala de tomate - fish (cod) balls in tomato sauce with hard peas. Enough said.
Pulpa a la Gallega - bland Galician octopus, which was predictably chewy
Finishing all of this, we were still hungry, so we ordered more Spinach croquettes and added Croquetas de Jamon. The jamon tasted like ooey, gooey, chipped beef in cheese. Yummy goodness. Then, we ordered postres. The waiter brought us a tower of chocolate cake and whipped cream. It was gone in a flash of dueling forks.
On the way home from dinner, after midnight, a pigeon shat upon me. I suppose it wouldn´t be an international trip without some crazy animal mistaking me for their private baño. When Sandra finished laughing, which took way too long, she handed me a tissue...and took a photo.
Sunday, May 4, 2008
Rat tails, flamenco dresses and more
We´ve left Madrid for the beauty of Andalusia. Traveling by bus to Cordoba was a beautiful way to see the countryside. The area around Madrid is flat, but as you get further south, the land starts to roll and olive trees and vineyards abound. It´s hot here, at least 80 every day.
Cordoba is full of wonders to explore. It´s a melting pot for Jewish, Muslim and Christian faiths. In fact, the primary attraction is the Mezquita-Catedral, which is a Mosque with a Cathedral smacked down in the center.
We found a beautiful guesthouse right by the Mezquita, which is run by a lovely fellow Sagittarian and his family. Our room is tiny, but private, a nice change from the hostel in Madrid. The bathroom is miniscule with a shower the size of a postage stamp. The whole room floods each time you shower. Sleep was impossible last night as our window opens onto the main square. We were entertained until the wee hours with passersby singing and dancing their way home. But, it is homey enough for a few days and the price was right!
There´s a festival going on whose name escapes me for the moment. It really doesn´t matter as the concept is simple. There are numerous red flowered crosses scattered around the city. After dark, the site of each becomes the location for a huge street party. It´s sort of like ¨church youth group gone bad¨as every 15 year old in Cordoba is dancing in the streets with cocktails. We found three crosses last night and began learning flamenco, which we are determined to master by our return. There are beautiful little girls (about 5 years old) who were dancing in their flamenco dresses until 2 in the morning. !
Yesterday was also the day of the wedding in Cordoba. We saw 3 and inadvertently crashed two. My traveling companion went as far as to enter the church during the ceremony and exited just behind the bride and groom. Scandalous!
The rat tail is alive and well in Cordoba. They are a status symbol, I think, though not sure exactly what status. There are long ones, short ones, dyed ones, ponytailed ones, fat ones, skinny ones. I´ve never seen that many...even as an 80s school girl!
Sandra and I have separated for the morning. She´s going to explore piles of old rocks (I´m told they are valuable architectural sites). I´m headed off to view the artwork of Cordoba´s most famous artist Julio Romero de Torres. His artwork was highly respected in his time, but has lost luster since his death. Cordoban´s still idolize him and I must see.
Cordoba is full of wonders to explore. It´s a melting pot for Jewish, Muslim and Christian faiths. In fact, the primary attraction is the Mezquita-Catedral, which is a Mosque with a Cathedral smacked down in the center.
We found a beautiful guesthouse right by the Mezquita, which is run by a lovely fellow Sagittarian and his family. Our room is tiny, but private, a nice change from the hostel in Madrid. The bathroom is miniscule with a shower the size of a postage stamp. The whole room floods each time you shower. Sleep was impossible last night as our window opens onto the main square. We were entertained until the wee hours with passersby singing and dancing their way home. But, it is homey enough for a few days and the price was right!
There´s a festival going on whose name escapes me for the moment. It really doesn´t matter as the concept is simple. There are numerous red flowered crosses scattered around the city. After dark, the site of each becomes the location for a huge street party. It´s sort of like ¨church youth group gone bad¨as every 15 year old in Cordoba is dancing in the streets with cocktails. We found three crosses last night and began learning flamenco, which we are determined to master by our return. There are beautiful little girls (about 5 years old) who were dancing in their flamenco dresses until 2 in the morning. !
Yesterday was also the day of the wedding in Cordoba. We saw 3 and inadvertently crashed two. My traveling companion went as far as to enter the church during the ceremony and exited just behind the bride and groom. Scandalous!
The rat tail is alive and well in Cordoba. They are a status symbol, I think, though not sure exactly what status. There are long ones, short ones, dyed ones, ponytailed ones, fat ones, skinny ones. I´ve never seen that many...even as an 80s school girl!
Sandra and I have separated for the morning. She´s going to explore piles of old rocks (I´m told they are valuable architectural sites). I´m headed off to view the artwork of Cordoba´s most famous artist Julio Romero de Torres. His artwork was highly respected in his time, but has lost luster since his death. Cordoban´s still idolize him and I must see.
Friday, May 2, 2008
¡Viva España!
It feels so good to be wandering internationally again - still in a Spanish speaking country, though with a friend this time. Spain is beautiful and filled with amazing things to explore. Sandra and I have been in Madrid for two days, but we´ve already acclimated to a European schedule. I have no idea what time it is at home, and I am very much enjoying eating, playing and sleeping at will.
The flight here was long. We arrived at 7 AM local time, which is around 1 AM on the East Coast. The last hour was beautiful - there was nothing but blackness until then, but at around 6, a thin line of light appeared on the horizon. It grew larger and larger and pinker and pinker until the sun popped up over the horizon, blinding us. We met a couple of guys (who were an actual couple) in the airport who turned out to be huge primadonnas and, despite many Spanish lessons, could not figure out how to change their money. I ended up being the mouthpiece for everyone (scary!) and somehow managed to get us out of the airport and into the subway station.
Our hostel is wonderful. It was rated the best hostel in the world in 2005. It is supposedly haunted, but I´ve sensed nothing yet. There´s free internet and breakfast (if you can get up before 10 AM). I´m sitting in the basement, appropriately called the Bat Cave since it´s black concrete from floor to ceiling, listening to a weird soundtrack (most recently Ghostbusters theme) as a disco ball spins.
Madrid is very cosmopolitan and very old at the same time. ¨Public art¨ fills the streets in the form of old architecture and statues. There is no shortage of things to see and I´m certain I´ve taken more photos in 2 days than I did in 3 weeks in Guatemala. We visited Museo del Prado and the Reina Sofia today, drinking in as much art as we could. The most poignant moment was when we rounded a corner at the Reina Sofia and were face to face with Guernica, Picasso´s painting telling the story of Nazi German bombing of Guernica, Spain. It was breathtaking. The painting itself is huge, but it was difficult to see because visitors were stacked 4 people deep to view it. I had to make a concerted effort to pull myself away when I finally had my turn at the front of the line.
It´s festival time here (the 200th anniversary of some really terrible things in Spain - here for more, which is rewarding and challenging all at the same time. Challenging since everything is closed - including banks, which makes withdrawing money difficult. We finally found an ATM in the Ritz and used their bathroom - I have pictures (it was worth it). Rewarding because its a party everywhere you turn. We got to see a parade at the Palacio Real today and hung out in a parque for a concert by the National Symphony.
What else? The food...oh, the food. It´s phenomenal. In addition to gazpacho, churros, and freshly baked pastries from the corner market, I ate an entire plate of olives yesterday. They were stuffed with some sort of ooey, gooey, garlic and cheesy goodness. The rijoa and sangria flows freely and it is impossible to resist.
As wonderful as Madrid is, I am ready to move on. We leave tomorrow morning to travel by bus to Cordoba. This begins our trek to the region of Andalusia in the south of Spain, where hiking, biking and flamenco are our priorities.
The flight here was long. We arrived at 7 AM local time, which is around 1 AM on the East Coast. The last hour was beautiful - there was nothing but blackness until then, but at around 6, a thin line of light appeared on the horizon. It grew larger and larger and pinker and pinker until the sun popped up over the horizon, blinding us. We met a couple of guys (who were an actual couple) in the airport who turned out to be huge primadonnas and, despite many Spanish lessons, could not figure out how to change their money. I ended up being the mouthpiece for everyone (scary!) and somehow managed to get us out of the airport and into the subway station.
Our hostel is wonderful. It was rated the best hostel in the world in 2005. It is supposedly haunted, but I´ve sensed nothing yet. There´s free internet and breakfast (if you can get up before 10 AM). I´m sitting in the basement, appropriately called the Bat Cave since it´s black concrete from floor to ceiling, listening to a weird soundtrack (most recently Ghostbusters theme) as a disco ball spins.
Madrid is very cosmopolitan and very old at the same time. ¨Public art¨ fills the streets in the form of old architecture and statues. There is no shortage of things to see and I´m certain I´ve taken more photos in 2 days than I did in 3 weeks in Guatemala. We visited Museo del Prado and the Reina Sofia today, drinking in as much art as we could. The most poignant moment was when we rounded a corner at the Reina Sofia and were face to face with Guernica, Picasso´s painting telling the story of Nazi German bombing of Guernica, Spain. It was breathtaking. The painting itself is huge, but it was difficult to see because visitors were stacked 4 people deep to view it. I had to make a concerted effort to pull myself away when I finally had my turn at the front of the line.
It´s festival time here (the 200th anniversary of some really terrible things in Spain - here for more, which is rewarding and challenging all at the same time. Challenging since everything is closed - including banks, which makes withdrawing money difficult. We finally found an ATM in the Ritz and used their bathroom - I have pictures (it was worth it). Rewarding because its a party everywhere you turn. We got to see a parade at the Palacio Real today and hung out in a parque for a concert by the National Symphony.
What else? The food...oh, the food. It´s phenomenal. In addition to gazpacho, churros, and freshly baked pastries from the corner market, I ate an entire plate of olives yesterday. They were stuffed with some sort of ooey, gooey, garlic and cheesy goodness. The rijoa and sangria flows freely and it is impossible to resist.
As wonderful as Madrid is, I am ready to move on. We leave tomorrow morning to travel by bus to Cordoba. This begins our trek to the region of Andalusia in the south of Spain, where hiking, biking and flamenco are our priorities.
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