Montserrat

Montserrat has long been linked to heaven on earth and I decided to spend this day trekking it. The universe always seems to have other plans, however, and as the train approached the base of the mountain, fog rolled in. Boarding a cable car that would take me to about 700m, I realized spectacular views were going to be nonexistent, and so resigned myself to exploring the ancient monastery that is also there.

Upon arriving, I found the Basilica at the center of the monastery, which dates to 1035ish (though most of the original structure was destroyed by Napolean´s troops), and went inside. The decorations of the building are opulent and mindboggling. Gold, silver, bronze and marble adorn floors and walls covered in ancient mosaics. Iron fixtures hang from the ceiling to light the way through small, narrow hallways. The centerpiece of the cathedral is La Moreneta, a black virgin, and I was able to admire her closely.

I moved to sit in the sanctuary to take photos and the church bells started ringing. Before I knew what was happening, the church began to fill with monks, nuns and other tourists. I was in the middle of a full blown mass. Not understanding the Latin-Spanish service, I sat quiety until communion, when I exited.

A brief visit to the monastery´s museum yielded masterpieces by Picasso, Dali, Carravaggio and more. There was an uncovered Egyptian mummy as well. Wandering a bit outside in the square, the heaving clouds finally gave way and burst open. Taking shelter once again in the Basilica, I was rewarded by a performance by the Boys Choir. There voices were ethereal. Before they sang, the visitors were asked to recite the Lord´s Prayer in their native tongue. It was truly incredible to hear it recited in no less than 5 languages in unison.

As I made my way back to the arie for a ride down the mountain, I noticed a sign post pointing me to ´Via Cruces´. The deluge was over and curiosity overcame me, so I turned left and proceeded up a wide walkway lined with crosses - thus the name. After walking for about 10 minutes, there was a staircase leading to the right up into the trees and into the mountain. No one was around. Of course, I took it.

A short 30 minute hike straight up the mountain took me to a small shrine near the top. The clouds and fog momentarily blew away and the views were breathtaking. I was completely alone in this paradise atop the mountain. Screaming children and puffing trains were far below me in the distance. I sat quietly watching birds build nests. Eventually, the fog began to blow back in underscoring the mysterious and haunting aura of this place.

I spent a few more hours walking on footpaths through the towering rock structures before coming back down. Montserrat is a magical place that I will not soon forget.